An Afghanistan experience.

The Medical Journal of Australia ISSN: 0025-729X 1/ 15 December 2003 179 11/12 591-593 ©The Medical Journal of Austral ia 2003 www.mja.com.au Frontline Medicine THIS IS A brief account of my six months in Afghanistan in 2003. I worked as the Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) project doctor in the western province of Herat, spending alternate weeks in Herat City and in Kushk-e-Kohna, a sparsely populated district some two hours north of the provincial capital by four-wheel drive. I arrived in February, just over two years after the US-backed overthrow of the Taliban. Herat is now controlled by its Emir and Governor, Ismail Khan, who rules beyond the reach of Afghanistan’s central government. With a private army of sixty thousand men and control of customs revenue from trade with Iran, it is no wonder he has not, despite invitation, joined the government of Hamid Karzai. His unchallenged power and the considerable wealth at his disposal have in fact made Herat relatively more stable and prosperous than the rest of the country. It is February, and the winter snows are just thinning as I arrive to work in the mobile clinic in Kushk-e-Kohna, which I affectionately call “Kushk”, or “palace”, in the local language of Farsi. The name clearly harks back to a more prosperous time, for there is no palace to be found in this district of sixty thousand people. The inhabitants have mudbrick houses and live mostly off subsistence farming, growing wheat (Box 1) and raising livestock (Box 2). They have lived like this for generations, and life was little different under the Taliban, although now it is evident that young girls are going to newly built schools. There are only two doctors for the entire population — myself and an Afghan doctor recently recruited by MSF. Dr Mohammad Amin has recently graduated, and is enthusiastic about working with MSF, learning English and broadening his knowledge. Before 2003, locals had to gamble on the only “healthcare” available — drugs sold in private pharmacies by untrained “drug sellers”. And so it is that after a week I begin getting used to the hundreds of patients presenting every day, many having walked for hours, thronging around the makeshift consultation room and desperately pressing to be seen (Box 3). The mobile clinics are situated across the district, with MSF’s base in the district centre of Kooklam. We visit one or two An Afghanistan experience